Monday, September 12, 2005

Mekadatu

Mekadatu simply means ‘goat’s leap’. The place got its name because a goat could leap across, may be true, or may be it is just a legend.

Mekadatu is about 98 kms from Bangalore. We left home at 9 am we did not hazzle ourselves for a early rising, early leaving funda. We were very relaxed.

Cauvery Sangam is on Kanakpura road. Here, the river Arkavathy meets river Cauvery. At different points of the river, the level of water is different. I went in January 2005, and hence the water level was a little low.

Like any tourist center, the place was full of people. The sight of all the people playing in the water was fabulous. There are lots of shops for Icecream, cool drinks, people fried fish, chips, egg omelette, bread toast, toys etc and it was like a mela in itself.

The car has to be left in the car park. We had to cross the river to reach Mekadatu.

We just folded our pants upto the knee, and started walking across the river. The river reached upto the knee in some places, but, the water was swift. I am told that, when the river is full in the rainy season, we need to engage a coricle boat ( the round boat, made of bamboo, with rubber base ) to cross the river.

On the other side of the river, there is a bus stop. Mekadatu is 4 kms from the Sangam. We waited in the bus stop. There is a bus every 10 minutes. The cost of the ride is Rs. 20 per head. The bus started as soon as it got full, the road is bad, and the ride was bumpy. The bus also was very old, and did not have any windows. And as it was going on the bumby road, the bus was noisy.

Within 15 mins, we reached Mekadatu.

This place is scary, and you can see the fury of the river here. I am sure the River Cauvery has been flowing here for several centuries. Now the river is damed in several places, and hence the flow of water is less. But, in the good old days, the river must have been swelling in the winter season, and in Mekadatu, you can see the proof. The place is mountaineous, and the rocks have become smooth because of the force of the water over the years. I remember seeing a program on Nat Geo about the Grand Canyan, and how the place formed. They formed because of the flow of the River Colorado in the region. The river was so wild, that over the centuries, it hollowed the land where it flowed, and the Grand Canyan was the result.

Mekadatu is similar. The mountain is cut into smooth stones, and resulted in a deep gorge due to the force of the river.

There are no safety barricades. So, one has to be doubly careful. The gorge is more that 150 feet deep, and I had to crawl to the edge, to see the water flowing below. There is not much place, where you can stand safely and watch the river flow through the narrow gorge. All places are completely smooth, and the footwear available these days, is not really suitable to walk around these smooth stones. A slip can mean instant death.

We did not have the guts to stand at the edge of the gorge, and see the water flow below. Therefore, we crawled, rested flat on the floor, and saw the water flowing below. We stepped back a bit, and could see the gorge, from left to the right, and the river flowing slow….through it. The water seemed very still, and I don’t know, how deep the water can be at that place. There is a proverb that silent waters run deep. I am sure, that the water flows…but, it is not visible to our eye.

From the bus stand, we could have a wonderful view of the entire gorge..the entire place is less than 50 mts in length. Before that and after that, it is plain flat land. The gorge, as I told u, formed in the mountain because of the flow of water over the years. And trust me, the place is scary. There are several cravesses in the mountains, dunno how deep, when I peeped, I could not see anything.

We saw several young college students, wearing Hawaii chappals and walking all over the smooth gorge. I was getting really scared, and wanted them to come away from the area.

We got back into the bus, and reached the Sangam, crossed the river, got into the car, and came back. It was already 4.30 pm in the evening, and wanted to get back to Bangalore, by 6.30 at least. Chunchi falls is about 10 kms from Cauvery sangam, but, we could not go there, as it was getting late. Chunchi – some other day.

Getting there :

Road : 98 kms from Bangalore on Kanakpura Road. From Kanakapura to Sangam, by road. After about 25 km on the road to Sangam, take a left-turn at Eelehalli for going to Chunchi Falls.

Trip Duration : 1 day

Best time : Any time

Accomodation : It is a single day driving trip. But, you wanna stay around that place, Jungle Lodges Resorts has a couple of properties around the area.
Cauvery Fishing Camp, Doddamakalli, Bhimeshwari & Galibore Resorts – All of these are Jungle Lodge properties along the river, and you can have a swell time here. They have tents and log huts, that cost Rs. 1500 per person per night. 3 meals and the coricle rides are included the cost.
Email : Reservation@junglelodges.con, info@junglelodges.com
Ph : 91-80 – 25597201 / 91 – 80 – 25597025 / 91 – 80 - 25597025

Friday, August 26, 2005

Marijuana UnLimited at Malana

This place is intoxicating. You would ask me why ? It is because this is the only place in India, where growing Marijuana or Cannabis is legal. All the families own fields, where marijuana is the main crop cultivated. Their material is supposed to be the best in the country. The place is Malana. Marijuana and Malana, wow, they also rhyme.

You ask any college student about grass, they will tell you, that the stock that comes from malana is the best. The stock that comes from Darjeeling and Simla are also good. But, the Malana dope from HP is the best.

Himachal pradesh is notorious that way. Since, ganja is grown here in large quantities, it is also available in large quantities, and is sold in all places. There is no taboo associated with it at all. You can just go to any shop and ask for it.

Ganja from Malana is not sold in leaf form. It is available in the form of thick papads. What they do is, grind the fresh leaves, extract juice. Then, the juice is poured in large plates and is left to dry…ie for the liquid content to evaporate. So, what is left behind is the concentrate….then, it is made in the shape of rotis and sold. A ganja papad / roti, of the size of your palm costs about Rs. 3000. You can buy smaller quantities also for Rs. 250 or 300.

So, how does one use it…do I need to explain this. Make it into a powder. Empty the contents of your cigarette, ie remove the tobacco. Fill it with the ganja powder, lit one end like u usually do, and drag. I can guarantee that the stock from Malana is the best.

Malana is a tiny village with just about 100 houses and is very unique in many other ways. The place is not civilized, and the people here believe they are descendents of Alexander the great. This may be true. When Alexander came to India, he got defeated, and returned. His soldiers who were very tired, did not want to get back. They found Himachal Pradesh, cool like most of us do, and decided to stay back. And, they inhabit Malana now, and they are called Malanis….like how people in Kerala are called Keralites.

Malanis believe they are superior, and that the rest of the people are untouchables. When I went trekking in Himachal, I passed through Malana, that’s why the travelogue about this place. We carried chocolates to give children whom we meet on the route. The kids from Malana would not take anything from us, directly from our hand, like the other kids. We have to throw chocolates or biscuits on the floor, and then they would pick it up. The purpose is not to touch us. Malana has several chai shops, where paan and cigarettes are available. You have to throw cash, and they will throw cigarettes or paan masala packets to you, or any item that you purchase. The only 2 communities in India, who they feel are equal to them are Rajputs and Brahmins.

It is therefore forbidden for us to touch anyone or anything in Malana. The villagers have built a series of cement tracks through the place and these cement tracks are for us, the impure. Everything off the track is forbidden and as you walk the locals will jump from the track into the mud so as to avoid any physical contact with you. Also, you will find many writings on the rocks and walls, indicated that if you touch their houses and temples, you will be fined. Malana is in a popular trekking circuit in Himachal, and hence lots of people pass by this place.

Malanis also look different, their features are sharp. They are extremely fair, but, short people. Traditionally Malanis’ do not leave their village for employment. They grow ganja, and sell it. But, now, Malanis have started leaving their villages in search of employment. For instance, our trek guide was a Malani, and he told me all the interesting stories.

I did not go to Malana, coz I was very tired in the evening, after a full day of trekking. I was camping on a mountain, which is in front of the mountain, on which Malana is situated. In between the 2 mountains was the Malana Nala, another tributary of the river Parvathy.

The Malanis believe that Malana is a separate country. They do not follow the constitution of India, and they do not follow Indias law and order system. They have a indigenous government system, the local panchayat, that meets regularly, and all the problems are solved internally. Their panchayat has a lower house and a upper house as well, with Prime Minister and President. They believe they are independent and superior.

Couple of my friends went into Malana village. They told me, the village was dirty, cow dung all over the place, and narrow lanes…like any normal Himachal village. Also, the village itself, in its majestic natural setting, is a garbage dump. Litter is just thrown into the streets and behind houses. Also, they had to throw money to buy cigarettes. They also bought some dope.

Inside the village, our trekking guide ( as I told you, he is a Malani ) took, all my friends, to a temple…it is temple for Devi Ma or Jamblu Devta. The temple is opened once in a year, and the puja is performed only once in a year. If anyone opened the temple door, at an inappropriate time, then, Devi Ma gets angry and kills them.

The main temple is an ancient wooden affair, the outside walls carry no idols; but there are dozens of deer heads and animal horns nailed to the old boards. Horns of sheep and buffaloes are displayed in the entrance of the temples. I think, these animals are sacrificed to please the Gods, and the horns are left behind. The threshold to the temple is covered by cow dung, but there will always be someone there to make sure that you don't get anywhere near the sacred place. You can check the snaps that I have posted.

I think, all these stories of Devi Ma getting angry are untrue, and ganja is stored here, inside the temple. Once in a year, all the ganja produced in auctioned. Every year, three people come and buy the stock, a American, A French and a German guy. So, the Malanis, you assume would be rich people. Yes, they are, but the don’t look rich, coz they do not bathe at all. All their money from dope is usually in banks at Mandu. The village certainly does not look rich.

If you want to get to Malana, this is how you have to do it.

Getting there :

Malana is nestled six kilometres above the town of Jari in the Parvatti Valley. It is about 3700 meters above sea, and is connected to the Kullu valley by three mountain passes.

Nearest Road : Manikaran or Jari or Kullu. But, to get to these places, you have to walk on mountains ie trek to Malana.

In Jari they are building a dam, so you can drive your car to the top of the project and leave it there. After that, you've got a beautiful and difficult 3 hour trek through forest and river to the top of a mountain.

Manikaran is a 10 hr trek. You can trek to Malana from Rashol, Naggar vis Chanderkhani Pass.

Nearest Airport : Bhuntar – 13 kms from Jari

Trip Duration : 1 days

Best time to visit : Summer, April to June

Where to stay : On the mountain opposite Malana, on this side of the Malana Nala as I have explained. Carry your tent equipment and toilet paper.

Tuesday, April 26, 2005

Bharat Darshan on HimSagar Express

Himsagar Express is the longest running train in the country, running between Jammu Tawi Railway Station in the extreme north and Kanyakumari Railway Station in the extreme south. The name 'Himsagar' is indicative of the great Himalayas and the mighty Indian Ocean. The train is painted cream and blue.

It has the longest run both in terms of total time taken and distance covered. It covers its route of 2,344 miles or 3,751 Km in 74 hours and 55 minutes.

It serves 4 zones – Southern Railways, South Central, Central and Northern Railways. It runs through the states of Kerala, Maharashtra, Delhi, Rajasthan, Haryana, Punjab, Himachal Pradesh and Jammu and Kashmir.

The Himsagar Express and the Navyug Express, between Jammu Tawi and Mangalore, cover the largest number of 11 states during their respective journeys.

The Express runs once a week and covers a distance of 3,751 km in 74 hours and 55 minutes. Jalandhar, Ludhiana, New Delhi, Bhopal, Nagpur, Ernakulam and Thiruvananthapuram are the main stations on the way

Train Number 6318: Jammu Tawi to Kanyakumari, leaves Jammu Tawi at 23:15 hrs on Mondays.Train Number 6317: Kanyakumari to Jammu Tawi, leaves Kanyakumari at 14:05 hrs on Fridays.

Base fare:Class IA – Rs 2857.00Class IIA – Rs 2479.00Class IIIA – Rs 645.00

The stops on HimSagar are :

Jammu Tawi, Bari Brahman, Samba, Kathua, Madhopur Punjab, Pathankot, Chakki Bank, Mukerian, Dasuya, Tanda Urmar, Jalandar Cant, Phagwara Jn, Phillaur Jn, Ludhiana Jn, Kila Raipur, Ahmadgarh, Malerkotla, Dhuri Jn, Sangrur, Sunam, Chajli, Lehra Gaga, Jakhal Jn, Tohana, Narwana Jn, Uchana, Barsola, Jind Jn, Julana, Rohtak Jn, Sampla, Bahadurgarh, Shakurbasti, Delhi Kishanganj, New Delhi, H Nizamuddin, Faridabad, Agra Cantt, Dhaulpur, Gwalior, Jhansi Jn, Bhopal Jn, Itarsi Jn, Nagpur, Sevagram, Chandrapur, Balharshah, Ramagundam, Warangal, Khammam, Vijaywada Jn, Tenali Jn, Ongole, Nellore, Gudur Jn, Renigunta Jn, Katpadi Jn, Jplarpettai, Salem Jn, Erode Kn, Tiruppur, Coimbatore Jn, Palghat, Ottapalam, Trichur, Alwaye, Ernakulam Town, Kottayam, Tiruvalla, Chengannur, Quilon Jn, Trivandrum Central, Nagarcoil, Kanayakumari.

What’s more interesting is the number of interesting places on its route. If you decide to traverse the country…and do a Bharat Dharshan, this is the train to take. Imagine a journey across India, where you board Himsagar express on Monday at 14.05 hrs. Get off all the places I have described below…and take the Himsagar express…when it comes again to the same station the following week on the same day. You get a week to explore all the places around the station. This way, u might take 4 months to cover the country, but it would be a grand way to do it.

At Kanyakumari – Triveni or the merger of the 3 oceans. You can go to the Kanyakumari temple and the Vivekananda Rock. Explore southern parts of Kerala as well..and then board the Himsagar at 14.05 on Monday..and cover the rest of the journey.

Nagarcoil – You can go to Nagore mosque here. Go to Thirunelvelli to see the beautiful Nellaiappan temple. Go to Courtralam water falls also.

Trivandrum – It is the beautiful city by the Arabian sea. From here, you can go to the Padmanabha palace which is about 50 kms away on the Kerala – TN border.

Kottayam / Ernakulam – Go for a cruise in the backwaters in a Kettuvellam. Go to Cochin, see the Matancheru Palance and the Synagogue, and the worlds famous Chinese fishing nets.

Salem – From here, you can get to Yercaud hill station, which has some of the worlds most famous residential schools.

Jollarpettai – Yelagiri hill station is about 90 kms from here. Get to Bangalore from Jollarpetta if u wish to, and get back to board the train.

Renigunta – You can visit Tirupati Temple and Alamelu Temple in Tiruchanur from here.
Vijayawada – Get off here and enjoy Andhra food. Rajamundry is stones throw away. Go on a cruise in the godavari and treat yourself with the best sea food available.

Warangal – Visit the famour 1000 pillar temple

Jhansi – Go to Orcha from here.

Gwalior – visit Gwalior Fort and the palaces

Agra Cant : Of course, the Taj mahal, Fateh pur sikri, Sikandra, you can also escape to
Rajasthan from here.

Nizamuddin – More Mughal monuments

New Delhi – Visit Red fort, Qutab Minar, Purana Quila, Humayuns Tomb, Lotus temple et all.

Jalandhar Cant – Go to the Golden Temple in Amritsar or the Wagah Border post.

Pathankot – If you wish to get to Kullu or Manali, this is the closest railway point. Get off here, to rush to the laps of the Himalayas.

Look out for these food experience. At the railway platforms, look out for, Dosa and vada at Erode from Kwality caterers, Ginger coffee(nice!) at Salem and Erode stations, Cardamon tea and Pazhampuri in Ernakulam, Mango Tandri in Vijayawada, Agri ke Pethe in Agra, Mithais and samosas through Punjab and Haryana, Oranges at Nagpur and Apples in Jammu.
If you think, I missed something, please add.