Friday, August 26, 2005

Marijuana UnLimited at Malana

This place is intoxicating. You would ask me why ? It is because this is the only place in India, where growing Marijuana or Cannabis is legal. All the families own fields, where marijuana is the main crop cultivated. Their material is supposed to be the best in the country. The place is Malana. Marijuana and Malana, wow, they also rhyme.

You ask any college student about grass, they will tell you, that the stock that comes from malana is the best. The stock that comes from Darjeeling and Simla are also good. But, the Malana dope from HP is the best.

Himachal pradesh is notorious that way. Since, ganja is grown here in large quantities, it is also available in large quantities, and is sold in all places. There is no taboo associated with it at all. You can just go to any shop and ask for it.

Ganja from Malana is not sold in leaf form. It is available in the form of thick papads. What they do is, grind the fresh leaves, extract juice. Then, the juice is poured in large plates and is left to dry…ie for the liquid content to evaporate. So, what is left behind is the concentrate….then, it is made in the shape of rotis and sold. A ganja papad / roti, of the size of your palm costs about Rs. 3000. You can buy smaller quantities also for Rs. 250 or 300.

So, how does one use it…do I need to explain this. Make it into a powder. Empty the contents of your cigarette, ie remove the tobacco. Fill it with the ganja powder, lit one end like u usually do, and drag. I can guarantee that the stock from Malana is the best.

Malana is a tiny village with just about 100 houses and is very unique in many other ways. The place is not civilized, and the people here believe they are descendents of Alexander the great. This may be true. When Alexander came to India, he got defeated, and returned. His soldiers who were very tired, did not want to get back. They found Himachal Pradesh, cool like most of us do, and decided to stay back. And, they inhabit Malana now, and they are called Malanis….like how people in Kerala are called Keralites.

Malanis believe they are superior, and that the rest of the people are untouchables. When I went trekking in Himachal, I passed through Malana, that’s why the travelogue about this place. We carried chocolates to give children whom we meet on the route. The kids from Malana would not take anything from us, directly from our hand, like the other kids. We have to throw chocolates or biscuits on the floor, and then they would pick it up. The purpose is not to touch us. Malana has several chai shops, where paan and cigarettes are available. You have to throw cash, and they will throw cigarettes or paan masala packets to you, or any item that you purchase. The only 2 communities in India, who they feel are equal to them are Rajputs and Brahmins.

It is therefore forbidden for us to touch anyone or anything in Malana. The villagers have built a series of cement tracks through the place and these cement tracks are for us, the impure. Everything off the track is forbidden and as you walk the locals will jump from the track into the mud so as to avoid any physical contact with you. Also, you will find many writings on the rocks and walls, indicated that if you touch their houses and temples, you will be fined. Malana is in a popular trekking circuit in Himachal, and hence lots of people pass by this place.

Malanis also look different, their features are sharp. They are extremely fair, but, short people. Traditionally Malanis’ do not leave their village for employment. They grow ganja, and sell it. But, now, Malanis have started leaving their villages in search of employment. For instance, our trek guide was a Malani, and he told me all the interesting stories.

I did not go to Malana, coz I was very tired in the evening, after a full day of trekking. I was camping on a mountain, which is in front of the mountain, on which Malana is situated. In between the 2 mountains was the Malana Nala, another tributary of the river Parvathy.

The Malanis believe that Malana is a separate country. They do not follow the constitution of India, and they do not follow Indias law and order system. They have a indigenous government system, the local panchayat, that meets regularly, and all the problems are solved internally. Their panchayat has a lower house and a upper house as well, with Prime Minister and President. They believe they are independent and superior.

Couple of my friends went into Malana village. They told me, the village was dirty, cow dung all over the place, and narrow lanes…like any normal Himachal village. Also, the village itself, in its majestic natural setting, is a garbage dump. Litter is just thrown into the streets and behind houses. Also, they had to throw money to buy cigarettes. They also bought some dope.

Inside the village, our trekking guide ( as I told you, he is a Malani ) took, all my friends, to a temple…it is temple for Devi Ma or Jamblu Devta. The temple is opened once in a year, and the puja is performed only once in a year. If anyone opened the temple door, at an inappropriate time, then, Devi Ma gets angry and kills them.

The main temple is an ancient wooden affair, the outside walls carry no idols; but there are dozens of deer heads and animal horns nailed to the old boards. Horns of sheep and buffaloes are displayed in the entrance of the temples. I think, these animals are sacrificed to please the Gods, and the horns are left behind. The threshold to the temple is covered by cow dung, but there will always be someone there to make sure that you don't get anywhere near the sacred place. You can check the snaps that I have posted.

I think, all these stories of Devi Ma getting angry are untrue, and ganja is stored here, inside the temple. Once in a year, all the ganja produced in auctioned. Every year, three people come and buy the stock, a American, A French and a German guy. So, the Malanis, you assume would be rich people. Yes, they are, but the don’t look rich, coz they do not bathe at all. All their money from dope is usually in banks at Mandu. The village certainly does not look rich.

If you want to get to Malana, this is how you have to do it.

Getting there :

Malana is nestled six kilometres above the town of Jari in the Parvatti Valley. It is about 3700 meters above sea, and is connected to the Kullu valley by three mountain passes.

Nearest Road : Manikaran or Jari or Kullu. But, to get to these places, you have to walk on mountains ie trek to Malana.

In Jari they are building a dam, so you can drive your car to the top of the project and leave it there. After that, you've got a beautiful and difficult 3 hour trek through forest and river to the top of a mountain.

Manikaran is a 10 hr trek. You can trek to Malana from Rashol, Naggar vis Chanderkhani Pass.

Nearest Airport : Bhuntar – 13 kms from Jari

Trip Duration : 1 days

Best time to visit : Summer, April to June

Where to stay : On the mountain opposite Malana, on this side of the Malana Nala as I have explained. Carry your tent equipment and toilet paper.